This comes from the fusion of Chenin Blanc grapes from two regions, Botrivier and the Swartland, both with similar soils, shale and sandy loam, and both influenced by the prevailing cooling maritime winds. Made in an oxidative and minimal interventionist style, for a wine that weighs in at 12.5% alcohol by volume, this is surprisingly rich and texturally engaging. The nose on opening is quite restrained, but with aeration some leesy richness and spice to the stone fruit/peach fruit tones comes forth aromatically. Medium bodied, the lees element from the nose carries over into the palate which has a juicy quality from the undercurrent of acidity that runs through the dry stone fruit/peach flavors. Finishing with a tangy, saline, mineral component there’s a light phenolic tug that brings this to a dry and lengthy finish. You will note that with some aeration this really opens up and gains nice mid palate flesh with acidity giving the dry fruit flavors energy and length.
95 pts WINEMAG.CO.ZA Dec 2019
Mount Abora sees three wine mavericks collaborating, these being Pieter de Waal who has put out some interesting stuff under the Hermit on the Hill label, Krige Visser responsible for winemaking at Arcangeli Vineyards in Bot River and Johan “Stompie” Meyer of Force Majeure, Mother Rock and JH Meyer Wines.
The trio have come up with something special in the form of Koggelbos Chenin Blanc 2018. Consisting of 50% Swartland fruit vinified by Meyer and 50% Bot River vinified by Visser, the nose shows peach, naartjie, spice and some leesy complexity. The palate is rich despite a modest alcohol of 12.5% – lovely mouthfeel and texture, coated acidity and a finish that is bitter in the best sense. Layers of flavour and well balanced, this is super stuff.