95 pts James Halliday

Sure it has the exuberance of youth, but this will age gracefully. Full of raspberries and currants with a cranberry tang alongside menthol and oak playing a part, but not a lead role. Fine and poised tannins, although acidity is very much a driver this vintage, it’s refreshing and lively. And like seasoning in cooking, the glug of malbec and petit verdot adds another dimension.

94 pts James Suckling

This has intense redcurrants and hints of red licorice with a cedary edge to the nose, too. The palate unfurls a very smoothly layered and structured take on elegantly powerful cabernet with a fresh, mouthwatering ride to the juicy, red-fruit finish. Drink or hold.

94 pts Wine Enthusiast

This bottling of Margaret River’s most longstanding wine wears the long, cool vintage on its sleeve. It’s a heady mélange of aromas and flavors such as black currant, sassafras, mint, cloves and green peppercorn. The tannins are taut and talc-like in texture, weaving seamlessly around the fruit, earthy herbs and spices, propelling them towards a long finish. Elegance and power are entwined here. Drink now to 2035.